Here is some sketches/photos of my Adjustable Curve Jig and Tool Grinder.The curve jig is made of a base of 1/2" plywood 12 feet long 18" wide. It is strengthened by 2 1/2" high by 3/4" stringers every 18" and length ways to add a little stiffness to it as it was constructed from 4' x 8' sheets.. A 1/2" plywood backboard is fastened to it 4 1/4" high. (could be thicker). The height should be a little more than the tie thickness.Two hardwood strips (I used Elder), 6 foot long, 3/4" wide by 1 1/4" high are fastened by one end to center of the backboard by two 1/4" flathead screws and tee nuts. The screws are spaced 1" and 2" from the end. Next a chalk line was snapped the length of the jig for reference. The offset for the curves was marked out every 6" starting from the center. I used two curve radii - 40 ft and 80 ft. The actual curve offset marked is the curve radius + 1/2 tie length since the hardwood is the outside guide for the ties. Holes are drilled in the backboard and the hardwood strip every 6" for
screws. Aluminum Links 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide are drilled to accommodate
the screws. There are three holes per link - 40ft R, 80ft R and Straight.
These links hold the curved hardwood strip in the exact position for the
selected curved which is marked out on the base. Links are not required
at 0 or 6" points. The first 4 or 5 links are slotted since the holes
are close together. The backboard screws are 1/4" - 20 hanger bolts
and hold the links with 1/4" wing nuts. The screws in the hardwood
are 8-32 and screw into a hollow aluminum post press fit in the hardwood.
[they are actually post screws used for holding paper pages together -
I had them on hand, any suitable screw would work.]
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| Tie Spacers, 1 1/2" long by 7/16" square are glued to the hardwood strip from the center on out for the tie spacing guides. I space my ties 2 3/8" and they are 3/4" wide. The spacers allow about 1/16" clearance for the ties. Every 4th or 5th tie, a Rail Spacer is glued instead. The Rail Spacer is a piece of hardwood 4" long by 1 3/8" high 7/16" wide. It is slightly higher than the tie and is notched the width of the rail base (5/8") lower than the tie. The dimension of the slot location will vary depending on the rail base width and the actual track gauge used. All these spacers were glued in place while the hardwood strip was curved to 40 foot radius and held in place by the links. | ![]() |
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The rail is pre-curved and fitted into the slots of the rail spacer and fastened to the ties. [That's after you've slipped on 50 tie plates!] The inside rail is fastened using a track gauge. This jig can make a 12 foot 40ft radius curve, a half 40 and half 80 or a half 80 and half straight section or a half 40 and half straight section or a 12 foot all straight section. I use a 24" rail joiner stagger, that is why the jig is 12 foot long. Additional holes in the aluminum links could produce different radius curves, or alternatively all the links could be slotted to allow unlimited curve radius - even somewhat less than 40 foot. Really tight curves would need a thinner piece of hardwood strip and the use of Maple or Oak. |
| Here's a turnout under construction
in my turnout jig. The jig can be turned over so that left and right turnouts can be constructed. It basically just spaces the ties at the right position and holds them in place. The rail spacing and frog location is done with a ruler. |
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